Hiking the Two Moors Way through Dartmoor National Park

The 102 mile Two Moors Way runs from Ivybridge on the southern boundary of the Dartmoor National Park to Lynmouth on the North Devon coast in the Exmoor National Park. Over the late-August bank holiday weekend (last year now in 2020), Markie and I we were planning to walk almost half of this long-distance footpath across the Dartmoor National Park.

We caught the train from London and after a quick dinner in Exeter, we arrived into Ivybridge once dark. It was pitch black as we walked into the park and I was wishing I’d replaced the batteries on my head-torch! Dartmoor is known for its incredibly bad weather but we were unbelievably lucky and the light drizzle that accompanied us from the station was the only rain we’d see all weekend.

The only time the rain jacket saw any daylight!

Things didn’t get off to the best start the following morning when we realised we’d brought the wrong camping gas – we needed a screw in cannister and not one you popped in. The pre-packed lunch sandwiches became breakfast, the coffee was packed away and we set off. We  passed a few people walking their dogs and their amazement with the sunny weather made it clear just how unusual it was.

It was flat and expansive for the first few hours as we walked along the Dart River and despite the wonderful weather it was still boggy in places. This terrain definitely did not last all hike – the first two days were in fact very up and down while the scenery would also vary over the next three days as we walked through thick forest, woods, an apple orchard, fields and the occasional dirt track.

Views walking along the Dart River on day 1

Dartmoor is known for its many tors – outcrops of granite rock that often sit on top of hills. The park has over 150 and each is a unique formation. A few can be climbed for fantastic views while others make recognisable features, including one called Bowerman’s Nose.

Views from atop a tor
The famous ‘Bowerman’s Nose’ Tor

The National Park is one of the few UK parks, and the only one in England I believe, that you’re allowed to wild camp in and this was a highlight of the hike.  We ‘timed’ our days perfectly, finding a spot to pitch our tent just before sunset and camped above Widecombe in the Moor on our 2nd night and at Easdon Tor on our 3rd.

Camping above Widecombe in the Moor (2nd night)

 

Camping at Easdon Tor on our 3rd & final night

Finally, the gas debacle didn’t turn out to be a major disaster as we passed through a number of delightful villages where we were able to buy lunch and dinner. Highlights were definitely the tea room in Holne on day one and our Sunday roast at the Cleave Inn on day two.

Sunday roast!

We finished as we had started with a meal back in Exeter before hopping on the train home. We still couldn’t quite believe we had remained dry throughout!

Practical Information

Route

  • Day 1: Ivybridge ➡️ Holne ➡️ Widecombe in the Moor
    • 12 miles to Holne, a further 7 to our camping spot
  • Day 2: Widecombe in the Moor ➡️ Hound Tor ➡️ Lustleigh ➡️ wild camping at Easdon Tor
    • roughly 15 miles
  • Day 3: Easdon Tor ➡️ Chagford ➡️ Drewsteignton
    • very roughly 12 miles

Wild Camping Map –  https://www.dartmoor.gov.uk/about-us/about-us-maps/camping-map

Trains – train information can be found on the Trainline website here.

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